Procaster low power AM transmitter
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Grounding Tips


Overview

The ground connection on the Procaster™ serves 2 purposes:

  1. Safety ground for lightning protection.
  2. RF (radio frequency) ground for return of ground currents from the antenna.

    The base-fed vertical antenna on the Procaster™ is in reality only half of the antenna, the other half being a mirror image in the earth. In order to achieve the best range it is important that the ground be as conductive to RF currents as possible.
Remember, there are other contributing factors as well as the ground that can affect overall range and performance such as metal shielding, obstructions, absorbers (trees), other broadcasters nearby (may be on other frequencies) and electrical fields from power lines. So it's important to make sure that things that you have control over are done properly.
Here are some grounding choices which will be discussed:
  1. Radial ground system
  2. Grounding rod(s)
  3. Metal roof
  4. Underground metal water pipes
  5. Building electrical ground


1. The Radial Ground System - (BEST)
The most efficient method is to use a radial ground system directly under the Procaster™ installation - this will give the best range with the strongest, noise-free signal. The ground system consists of wires laying on top of or installed under the ground in a pattern similar to the spokes of a wheel. Because this is a dedicated ground, other electrical noises will not pollute your signal.

We recommend the following items from DX Engineering for a professional job that will last:


DXE-RADP-1P Radial plate (with 20 sets of stainless steel hardware)

DXE-RADW-500KBD Bulk radio wire kit (wire, lugs and biodegradable anchors)

In our example, a metal plate is placed under the mount of the Procaster which can be a wooden or metal post. make sure you leave enough room to account for snow build up if that is a factor in your area.

Extend outward 20 radial wires 20 ft long each from the metal plate. If you do not have sufficient room, then use 40 radial wires 10 ft long each (double up 2 radials per bolt in this case).
The next step is to install the disappearing ground wires without digging...

The best time to do this is early spring but it can be done other times, as well. The idea behind this is to get the grass of your lawn to grow over the radials and protect them from the mower.

First, mow the grass pretty short (about 1 in long after cutting) in the areas where you will be laying the radials down.

Next, connect the radials to the radial plate with the lugs provided.

Starting from the radial plate, pull the radial wire taught and push in a biodegradable anchor to hold the radial wire as close to the grass roots as possible. Use a hammer to drive it home. If the radial wire is sticking up any place due to uneven ground or the wire is loose just put another staple there. The idea is to get all parts of the wire down as close as possible to the ground so that the grass can grow over it.

Here is what it should look like.



Typically when you finish the last radial, your job is done. Mother Nature will do the rest. If you have done this in the early spring, the grass will grow up, surround the wire and pull it down firmly along its full length. If you do it in the fall after the grass has stopped growing, it will happen the next spring. This will be done so completely that in a few weeks you will have to actively look for the radials to see them.

Connect the plate to the ground lug of the Procaster™ with a minimum 12 AWG copper wire.

 

2. Grounding Rods - (GOOD to FAIR)
If your space is limited, a grounding rod can work well. Drive in a copper-clad steel rod (available at Home Depot, Lowes and electrical distributors etc.), at least 8 ft. If the ground is hard, use several shorter rods and connect them together using a minimum 12 AWG copper wire and the proper bronze clamps to make sure the electrical connection is good. Because this is a dedicated ground, other electrical noises will not pollute your signal.

Connect the ground rod(s) to the ground lug of the Procaster™ with a minimum 12 AWG copper wire.

 

3. Metal roof - (GOOD to FAIR)
A metal roof can provide an effective elevated ground system. If the metal panels are electrically isolated from each other, performance may not be as good. The Procaster™ can be mounted on a tripod which is attached to the roof with bolts or is held in position with concrete blocks. The advantage of the elevated ground system is that the transmitter is higher and more likely to have better range.

Connect to the ground lug of the Procaster™ with a minimum 12 AWG copper wire.

 

4. Underground metal water pipes - (FAIR to POOR)
Electrical panels usually ground to the copper water pipe very near to where it comes out from the ground inside the building.
It is unknown how well these pipes are connected electrically, and the electrical system may induce noise into the Procaster™ which will be heard on the receiving radio.
In this setup, the Procaster™ ground wire could be long, and this extra inductance could raise the impedance of the ground connection, making the ground as a whole, less effective.

Connect to the ground lug of the Procaster™ with a minimum 12 AWG copper wire.

 

5. Building electrical ground - (FAIR to POOR)
Building electrical grounds can work quite well, but there is the risk of electrical noise from household appliances getting picked up by the Procaster™ and transmitted to the receiving radio. This is something you have to try out and see: all situations are different.
Connect to the ground lug of the Procaster™ with a minimum 12 AWG copper wire.


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